Thursday, May 30, 2013

Toyota 0 Interest Free Maintenance Extended Another Month


Whatll it take to get you to buy this car today?

Zero percent financing?  Check.

Discount lease rates? Check.

Free maintenance? Check.

Toyota may have its share of troubles, but it knows what consumer buttons to push in an iffy economy.

Full details from Automotive News.

Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Repair of steering rack for Honda Civic

The symptoms of a failure of the steering of the river are squeaks, noises, heavy rotation of the steering wheel. Under suspicion could fall ball joints, tie tips. But after a thorough diagnosis, we conclude that all this - still steering rack. This applies to all vehicles. In this paper we consider the repair of steering rack for Honda Civic. First we need to remove the battery and air filter. The air filter is removed together with the body. Then dismantled the cavity. Should pay attention to the bracket with a clip that holds the bundle of wires. Take it off carefully, otherwise it will break. Then in the car to unscrew the bolt kardanchika steering shaft. In the engine compartment to unscrew the two mounting bolts on the right side and nut on the left. Then, demountable pillars, through which the steering rack is attached to the body. Each bracket is fastened by three bolts. To remove the rail, you need to unscrew the two bolts 10 that secure the motor electric power steering. Not removing this motor, rail does not pull it off. You already knew that it was a steering rack with electric power steering. Remove it goes through the doorway arch on the right side of the car. For this purpose, poddomkrachennom car is necessary to remove the right wheel, and then stand by loosening the three mounting nuts to the body and two bolts to the axle. Unscrew the tip of the steering, while not forgetting tie pins, so that during operation it is not out of the checkpoint. Next unscrewed tie rods. After dismantling shoots two straps that are on opposite ends of the slats. Inspection is done, and identify the causes of breakage. It turns out that he pinion mechanism operated without lubrication, so the noise and squeaking is caused by wear and tear of the plastic sleeve. In the process of driving, first appeared negligible backlash, which eventually grew into a vast, respectively, did not have enough lubrication for parts, get more free running. Replacement to be all worn parts. Then, when everything is ready, begin to collect steering rack. Graphite grease is a good alternative to the factory. So use it better. The rest of the assembly will take place in reverse order. Should pay attention to how the wheel is installed. He must be straight, otherwise, after the complete assembly, fix it already will be difficult. Tie rods shall be installed at the same place, to avoid breaching the gathering wheels.

Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Starter repair in 2109 with his own hands

As such, the starter is responsible for starting the action of the apparatus. The car starter is in an internal combustion engine. His appointment in the car - roll out the crankshaft to start the engine. As you know, the car's engine operates on the basis of unwinding elements. Consequence of a broken starter motor can be for example a couple of the stronger sex, pushing the car under your window. This four-pole DC motor chetyrehschetochny gets excited mixed way. In an important part of the starter is a device for information and breeding of starter drive gear. Flywheel - with a ring gear. The starter is on the right side of the engine and is attached to the clutch three bolts. Starter VAZ has high resistance to external factors and it is easy to chinitsya. Self-starter needed replacing key "to 10". First you need to detach the bolts to the starter. Need a lower bolt (located in a remote place). Bolt is withdrawn. Intake of warm air to shoot (the key "to 13"). It is necessary to remove the nuts from the upper mounting panel (panel is installed to protect the starter from the effects of hot air). Withdrawn shield. The same key "to 13" detached two upper mounting bolts starter. Lower bolt at the bottom of the car, it is also necessary to remove the bolt. Block on the output of the traction relay disconnected after starter slightly pushed forward. Nut wires unscrew it to split pulling the starter relay with the sign "+" batteries. Clutch and the intake pipe is passed starter at withdrawal, if I pull it up. The new starter set is similar in reverse order. Replacing the starter will cost in the 1000-1500 rubles. Is there any possibility to repair the starter itself? Contamination of the starting relay - one of the most common breakdowns starter. Pulling the relay is attached nut. To weaken it, need a key "to 13". Once the nut is loosened, the tip of the wire to disconnect. Next - you need a voltage of +12 V output relays. "Less" has to go to ground, and ohmmeter joins the mounting bolts. In the healthy switch after this action puts the anchor overrunning clutch in the box front cover. Three screws to unscrew a Phillips screwdriver. Pulling the relay is removed. Switch housing contains a traction rod with a spring that you want to get. Installing a new traction relay takes place in reverse order. After replacing the starter relay starter analyzed further using a Phillips screwdriver. The cover is removed. Check the brushes by unscrewing with a screwdriver slotted screw on the contact wire. Carefully pressing out the spring, you can retrieve the brush. If the brush zanoshena above 12 mm, it must be replaced. To the stator joins ohmmeter. Retaining ring is removed with a screwdriver. After removing the axle from the washer to loosen the two screws on the key "to 10". No bolts building starter disconnected. After removal of the tubes coupling bolts tested winding. Anchor also should not be burnt. Small errors are removed from the anchor cloth and then polished.

Monday, May 27, 2013

Car Tips Detecting Damage Brake Booster

Car Tips
Stepping on the brake pedal should not need to spend big power. With a bit of pressure just enough to make the brake pedal depressed and the vehicle speed control. When the brake, the pedal feels light. The brake pedal feels light was created for comfort in driving. We would be very disturbed when the brake pedal hard.

Among us, there must be an experienced brake problems when driving. For example, although the car brake grip (gripping tightly), but it often feels hard pedal when stepped on. Occasionally soft, but more often harder. Though the master brake has been replaced. Brake was new and still thick. But, it turns out this problem remains unresolved.

Is that because the brake booster? Indeed, the case surrounding the brakes will inevitably involve a component called the brake booster. Maybe also on the machine. Including the problem of the brake pedal hard. Among these components, most likely the brake pedal hard problems triggered by damage to the brake booster. Therefore, the brake booster is constructed to make the brake pedal lightly.

To detect whether or not defective brake booster, do the following steps. Turn the ignition to the OFF position (engine off). Roll (tap-off) brake pedal repeatedly to get the highest position of the brake pedal (foot still pressing the brake pedal). Turn on the machine. By the time the engine is on, the brake pedal will go down by itself (the position of the foot still pressing the brake pedal).

Then turn off the engine. At the time the engine dies, then the brake pedal must remain at the lowest position, and the pedal will go up if we do the reshuffle. When the test results did not correspond with the steps above, it is likely the source of the problem is the brake booster. Well, if proven that the brake booster problems, to overcome them should bring your car to the garage.

Because, to handle a minimum of brake booster must be replaced. In fact, it may also need to overhaul. For these two things, of course, should not be done alone. Then, what if the results of detection according to the steps above and showed no damage in the brake booster? Maybe the damage actually occurred in the installation of one way valve, or in vacuum.

Saturday, May 25, 2013

How to choose the right tires for the car

The only component that connects the car to the road are the tires. On the bus load of lies, which should provide a reliable contact with the road car, as they are responsible for turning and braking, depreciation should be a high resistance to road roughness and other factors. So you should always pick the tire according to the season, observe the rules of operation and check the tire pressure. In the selection of winter tires should consider the following factors. To ride on city streets is best frictional winter tires. Of course, the main factor behavior of vehicles on the road in winter is the tread pattern and chemical composition of rubber, but not the presence of spikes and / or lack of them. The most popular types of winter tires from popular manufacturers are: Goodyear, Bridgestone, Gislaved, Nokian, Yokohama. The following manufacturers are only slightly behind in popularity: Cordiant, Kleber, Dunlop. In the most recent positions are such firms as: Amtel, Toyo and Kumho. All firms winter tires for cars produce different models of non-studded and studded with different indices of speed, respectively, and the price of winter tires is different. For Russian roads, should choose the Scandinavian type of tires or European. European species of winter tires is different diagonal pattern. This contributes to great traction tires and the road surface and the moisture. European style of winter rubber prevents the effect of "aquaplaning". Scandinavian type of tires is different placement on the tire tread spikes arranged in several rows. This promotes better adhesion of rubber to the road surface. These tires keep the car well on any asphalt and dirt road.